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Udaipur
General Information
Described as the most romantic city of India, Udaipur is interspersed with shimmering lakes, marble palaces and fortunes vying with ach other to capture the visitor’s attention.
Its founder, Maharana Udai Singh, sought shelter here from the Mughals and was advised by a holy man to build his capital on this spot as it would then be uncionquered.He did so in 1559 A.D.
The three lakes of Udaipur, the Pichola, Fateh Sagar and Udai Sagar, make one forget that this land is part of the Rajasthan desert.
48 km
.from Udaipur is the famous Hindu shrine of Nathdwara, dedicated to Shri
Nathji (Krishna).
What to see
LAKE PALACE
Now a hotel, the Lake Palace stands in the middle of Pichola Lake, a three-square mile lake built in the 14th century and one of the three artificial tanks in Udaipur .This palace of curved archways, domes and cupolas almost seems to be floating in the lake .Throughout the interior there is a blend of furnishing of carved marble and mirrors studded in murals. Some of the rooms have stained –glass windows through which you can get a marvelous view of city across the lake .The palace was once known as Jag Niwas and has a companion piece, with a black marble pagoda Jag Mandi, on an island Shah Jahan into building the Taj Mahal.
CITY PALACE
Till the death of the last maharana about 30 years ago the City Palace was private property .Now the hoi polloi can enter its pottails, climb to its highest balconies for a splendid view of the Pichola lake and the Lake Palace Hotel .The Palace itself is an intricate warriors of inner patios, courtyards and balconies connected by narrow passageways and flights of stairs. The Peacock Courtyard features beautiful glass peacocks composed of thousand of tiny coloured glass shrines inset with the walls. Above is the maharana’s private apartment and below that is the tiny room. Containing a “golden sun” , a piece of reflective metal, which could be illuminated on days when cloud hide the real sun.
The rooms with mirrored walls and ivory doors, coloured glass windows and carved and inlaid marble balconies.
Attached is a mirrored walls and ivory doors, coloured glass windows and carved and inlaid marble balconies. Attached is a small museum containing textiles, amour, inscribed stone blocks and row of turbaned heads.
FATEH SAGAR
The northern of the two other lakes, and along its eastern bank, which is also where Udaipur city starts, twists a serpentine road with pretty parks. A recent addition, Sanjay Park, is known for its floral displays. In the centre of Fateh Sagar is a lush island with the Nehru Park. There’s a motor boat service out from the base of Moti Magu, or Pearl Hill. At the top of the hill is Pratap Smarak Memorial.
The walk up goes through delighted gardens at the hill-top where a huge statue of Maharana Pratap, a 16th century patriot king of Mewar, dominates .The other lake Jaisamand was built in the 17th century and is
the biggest of them all. It is surrounded by migratory birds on its 11 islands.
Excursions
HALDI GHAT
The site of the battle between Maharana Pratap and Akbar’s most general, Man Singh of Jaipur a fellow Rajput who sided with the Mughals . The rivalry between the royals houses of Jaipur and Udaipur even continue even today . The battlefield is really a narrow pass where Pratap with his small army laid ambush of Man Singh’s columns. The battle then spread onto the plains below.
CHITTPRGARH
The original capital of Mewar before Udai Singh built Udaipur, the fort 115 km from Udaipur, has witnessed so many battles that, according to belief, one can still hear battlecries and the clash of swords. Sacked three times, Chittor was first attacked in 1303 by Allaudin Khilji when he was bewitched Rani Padmini. In 1535, Bahadur Shah of Gujarat took over the capital. The final sack came when Akbar’s general Man Singh defeated Pratap. Almost every building was defaced every procession looted or destroyed.
The fort is perched on a 180-metre high hill and sprawls over 700 acres. The formidable 9-storeyed structure of Vijay Stambha in 1440. Kirti Stambha is dedicated to Sri Adinath, Rishabhdeo, and the first Jain Tirthankara.
A temple is dedicated to Meera Bai, mystic poetess and one of the leading figures of the Bhakti movement’s sun temple dating back to 8th century was converted in the 14th century into a Mother temple.
SAHELION KI BARI
To the north are the lovely gardens called Sahelion ki Bari, or House of friends, whose pathway and courtyard have fountains in ingenious combinations. A square tank in the inner court yard contains a white marble cupola in the centre, its roof turn into a waterfall, and blanks pavallion at each corner. In another part of the garden, four marbles spray water through their trunks and birds emit through their beaks.
GANGAUR
A stone gateway opening onto lakeside just north of the City Palace is the dancing girl used to perform, watched from an elevated barge on the lake by the nobility and their guest.
JAGDISH TEMPLE
Behind the Gangaur Ghat is the richly carved structure dating back to three centuries .Today it possesses such a valuable collection that armed guards stand on duty throughout the day.
CHETAK CIJRCLE
Named after Maharana Pratap’s steed who sacrificed his life for his master, Chetak circle is the centre of the town. The Jumma Masjid is here.North of the circle is the Bharatiya Lok Kala Mandal , afolk art and puppet museum
RANAKPUR:
One of the most important Jain pilgrimage centres, Ranakpur is the site of group temples in the quit and picturesque Aravali Hills. The central temple is called Charmukha (four-faced) and is dedicated to Sri Adinath Bishabhdeo, the first Jain Tirthankara, whose quadruple image is housed in the sanctum.Covering over 40,000 sq.feet of place it has 29 halls and 1,4444 pillars, each covered with intricate carving and no two of them alike .
The temple is built on a high plinth and rises to two or three stories .It has four subsidiary shrines with a total of 80 domes supported by 420
columns .In front of the Charmukh are scores of smaller shrines dedicated to
Jain deities-Neminatji and Parshawarnathji.
RISHABHDEO TEMPLE
About 65 km from Udaipur is the temple of Sri Adinath Rishbhadeo, the first Jain Tirhankara.Constructed in the 15 th century the temple housed an image of Rishabhdeoji, one metre in height and carved out of black marble.
NATHDWARA
A renewed pilgrimage centre, it is believed to have come about in an interesting manner. When Aurangzeb prohibited idolworship, devout Hindus fearing for the status of Shrinathji dedicated to move to a safer place. On the way at Singhad, 48 km from the away , the wheel of the chariot got irretrievably stuck in the mud .This was seen as a divine signal, and temple was constructed there. Nathdwara is also famous for its Pichwai Paintings.
EKLINGJI
In the valley of Kailashpuri, 22km from Udaipur, are 10 temples enclosed in high fortified walls .This complex is dedicated to Lord Shiva four-faced carved in the black marble, and some of the structure dates to the 15 th century .The main temple, built of granite and marble. Has a double storeyed Mandap under a pyramidal roof .The oldest temple is the Lakulish built in 971 AD by Nagarditya, the fourth ruler of Mewar.
Standard Sightseeing Tours:
Half day City
Visit the City Palace.Jagdish Temple, drive around Fatehsagar Lake.Sahelion ki Bari (Queen’s resort for her friends) and Bhartiya Lok Kala Mandir (Folk Art Museum)
Full Day Excursion to Chittorgarh
Once the cradle of Rajput chivalry and heroism it preceded Udaipur by about a thousand years as the capital of Simodia Rajput of Mewar .The ancient bastion, described in a ninth century classic in Khoman Raza is renowned for strength within the grasp of no one. It was sacked thrice and the wide gaping wounds can still be seen. It withstood all onslaughts, which is the charm of this fort.
Half Day Eklingji andNagda
Half day celebrated visit to Eklingji which was built for the tutelary deity of the Maharana’s of Mewar, of sand stone and marble in 734 A.D.Its 108 temples are enclosed by high walls and has a pyramidical roof composed of hundreds of knobs. Later, visit Nagda, one of the ancient palaces of Mewar dating back to the 6th Century A.D.The Sas Bahu Temples are among the most exquisitely craved temples.
Boat Cruise on Lake Pichola
Boat Cruise on Pichola Lake 4 Km long and 3 km broad, surrounded by splendid hills, palaces temples, bathing ghats and embankments. Visit the Island Palace Jag Niwas which is beautifully set in the lake.
Varanasi
General Information
Varanasi is believed to have been created when this universe itself was created .According to historical records,it is a city contemporary with Niniveh and Thebes and therefore today the oldest city in world .It is mentioned in Hindu sculptures dating back 3000 years .Most of the ancient temples were , however ,destroyed by invaders and some rebuilt by Rani Ahilayabai of Indore and rulers of the Maratha empire.
The name, Varanasi, is derived from its situation on the banks of the
River Ganges at the confluence of the rivers Varuna and Assi. It is better
known by ancient name, Kashi.
It is the mist important place of pilgrimage for Hindus, and the sight of the devout praying, standing waist-deep in water, is moving Varanasi has been a seat of learning from time immemorial.It was at nearby Sarnath that the Buddha preached his first sermon that the Buddha preached his first sermon and set in motion the Wheel of Law.
What to see
THE GHATS
Life in Varanasi revolves around its 7 km long sweep of about 100 bathing ghats which skirts the west bank of the Ganges Many of them were built by the rulers of places as far away as Mysore and Udaipur, among others .You should not miss taking a boat ride among the ghats at dawn for a view of the one of the most spectacular scenes of devotion ever .You could start from the central Dasawamedh Ghat go upriver to Asi Ghat and proceed downstream to Panchaganya.
You will see devotees thronging the water’s edges. Offering ritual puja to the Sun God and chanting the ‘Gayatri Mantra’ .Young men limber up with before making the dare-devil dives from temple spire .Women bathe as their saris billow in the water .Brahmins priests hold court on plinths beneath palm umbrellas and give sermons. Pavement barbers have heads and overnight stubbles, dhobis slape clothes mightly on jutting rocks smoothened with years of beating and yogis sit frozen in contorted positions.Wrestlings is a favorite pastime inVaranasi and crowed cheer, as combatants gleaming with oil, tussel in a soil pit. You will also see the constant burning at the Harikarmika and the Harishcaandra ghats.
Downstream from Asi Ghat is Tulsi Ghat, which honour Tulsi Das, who reanimated Ramayana into Hindu and died in 1623 .Janki Ghat is the site of the electric crematorium .Bachra Ghat is used Jain and has three Jain Temples .Besides it is the Shivala or Kali Ghat, the most royal ghat still used by the descendents of the Maharaja of Banaras and distinguished by its huge Shiva Lingam. Hanuman Ghat attracts hordes of devotees from all over India .Dandi Ghat is used by ascetics, fakirs and yogis .Past Harischandra’s smoking pyres is the Kedar Ghat with its temples.
Someshwar Ghat is said to have magical healing powers. Ahaiya Ghat was built by Ahalya Bai, queen of Indoor during the 18th century. Beyond the Dasaswamedh Ghat is Man Mandir Ghat, which has one of the five observatories built by Jai Singh II of Jaipur .This one was constructed in 1710 Mir Ghat leads to a Nepalese temples which is decorated with erotic paintings ,and further inland is the golden-spired Vashwanath temple ,Varanasi’s holiest shrine.Jasain .near Harikarmika, is another burning ghat .At the northern end is Dattaraya ghat , named after a Brahmin saint .Panchaganga ghat ,where five of India’s holy rivers are said to confluence .Tirlochan ghat is marked by its dual turrets and Raj Ghat is the final destination of pilgrims.
VISHWANATH TEMPLE
Hindus believe that Shiva actually lives here .And so this is one of the country’s most important temples. Pilgrims from across India throng here for a visit after having “washed off” their sins built in 1600 but was destroyed by Aurangzeb’s orthodox iconoclast .He then built his Gyanrapi Mosque at the site.
The Maratha queen of Indore, Ahalya Bhai, reconstructed the present shrine next door in 1776 .The solid gold plating of the spires were a gift from Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the founder of the first Sikh kingdom in 1835 .
DURGA TEMPLE
To the south is the red-ochre Durga temple built in the north Indian Nagara style by the 18th century Bengali Maharani .It is dedicated to Durga, a fierce form of Shiva wife Parvati .The temple is renowned for its resident tribe of monkeys.
Close by is the Tulsi Manas temple, a new pristine marble-structure with the Hindu epic Ramayana inscribed and the walls.
BANARAS HINDU UNIVERSITY
More than 20,000 students attend the University, two-thirds of them living on campus in pleasant, tree-shaded building, founded by Madan Mohan Malviya, a freedom fighter and barrister turned educationalist. On campus is the remarkable Bharatiya Kala Bhawan which has fascinating medieval miniatures some on palm leaves .Also on campus is a Shiva temple, which is made of beautiful white marble, rears its lofty heads into the sky. A rhinoceros fountain spouts water from its head.
Excursions
SARNATH
In some way Buddhism is said to have started at Sarnath, 8 km north of Varanasi. Here the enlightened Buddha gave his famous first sermon an enormous brick and stone stupa, 100 ft high built by Ashoka in 3rd century marks the spot of the lecture.
Sarnath probably derived its name from one of Buddha’s titles, Saranganath, lord of the Deer. It became a monastic centre, gaining official patronage as the capital of the Buddhism under Ashoka (269-232 BC) The Chinese Buddhist pilgrims, Fahsian and Hsuan Tsiang, who visited India in the fifth and seventh centuries, both recorded impression
of their stay .The latter of Senath’s vast monastery with 1,500 monks the
Ashokan pillars, lakes, gardens and magnificient giant stupas.
Over the centuries, Buddhijsm waned but much of Sarnath, fabled grandeur still remain. He huge swastika – covered Dhamakh Stupa dates back to 500 AD In recent years, a deer park has been added, replacing the one that existed on the site when the monastery in the existence an excellent archaeological museum has also been set up. Its prizes exhibit is the four faced lion capital which originally crowned the Ashoka pillars and is now the emblem of India’s government .It’s a treasure house of culptures from the Maurya, Kushan and Gupta period, well as Hindu images from the 9th to the 12th centuries.
RAMNAGAR FORT
An 18 Th century fort, 16 km across the rivers from Varanasi, Ramnagar is still the residence of the former royalty of Banaras .Part of his ancestral home is now a well organized museum with liveried guards and treasures giving a whiff of the former glory. Gem-encrusted weapon, mothballs howdahs palanquins, astrological clocks, ostrich eggs and vintage cars .Rare stuff!
Standard Sightseeing Tours
Half day, sightseeing tour of the city visiting the Bharat Mata Temple with a big relief map of India in marble , Durga Temples ,Tulsi Manas Mandir ,Banaras Hindu University which has an Art Galley and Mosque of Moghul Emperor Aurangabad built on the site of an ancient Hindu Temple .
Early morning boat excursion on the holy river Ganges to see the Bathing ghats and Cremation site .Watching people bathing and worship at the Ghats is one of the most extraordinary experiences of a visit to India.
Half day tour of Sarnath, the buried Buddhist city where Lord Buddha gave his first sermon. Sarnath was a renowned school of learning from 6th century B.C to 12th century A.D Visit the ruins, the stupa, the Buddhist temple and the Museum (Museum closed on Friday).
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